Archive for the ‘Istanbul’ Category

Kindle Rescue

Wednesday, June 24th, 2009

My delay due to waiting the weekend for Monday to acquire my Kindle from customs gave me the time to hang with Servet and her friends giving me a much better look into what life is like for Turks. On the outside life is very similar to the US, at least in Istanbul. Istanbul is a very modern city and of all the major European cities I’ve seen, which is a bunch, it’s prettier and more picturesque than most. This place could grow on me quickly. The city is divided into two sides by the Bosphorous River which runs from the Black Sea to the Marmara Sea.. The Asian side named as it is on the Asian Continent and the European side on the European continent, is the only place in the world with a ferry ride one crosses between two continents. This distribution of the city creates hundreds of miles of coast line dotted with beautiful parks, waterside cafes, ferry docks, homes, and more. My time has been spent exploring the Asian side with Servet, seeing where she grew up, visiting and having dinner with her friends, looking out over the blue waters wishing I were on one of the many sailboats cruising the coastline. The lifestyle and place I could adopt quite quickly. Of note we made a stop at a country club where one of her friends is members, and I felt like I was at a hi end club in Miami Beach, not what I would have anticipated.

Ah Monday arrived and now I can go get my much anticipate Kindle. While Turkey on the outside appears very modern it quickly becomes apparent why in some ways it’s still a third world country. One of Servet’s friends is an executive in the import business and called ahead pulling some strings to expedite the process. Our first mission is finding the UPS office at the airport cargo terminal. There is a good public transport system in Istanbul however, for a traveler, it’s a bit cumbersome to figure out and most of it is not tourist friendly. My morning journey to the airport starts with a taxi ride, 15 minutes of walking through a pedestrian market to the ferry docks, catching a ferry to the European side, a street trolley ride, subway to the main terminal, and then a half hour of asking numerous people for directions to an unsigned cargo terminal on the outskirts of the airport. Whew, UPS is found 2 hours into the excursion. They give us some paperwork and send us to the unmarked customs building next door for clearance. Through numerous inquiries we find ourselves hiking 4 flights of stairs in an non-air-conditioned building with 100 degree heat outside and successfully locate a guy setup by Servet’s friend to expedite the process amongst people running back and forth in no apparent order seeming to know what they are doing. After a lengthy interrogation of what we are importing with disbelief there is such a thing as an electronic book reader, we get drug down the stairs out around the corner of the building where there is a vine covered tin structure for shade filled with men in suits and briefcases standing next to makeshift counters filling out paperwork in the boiling heat. Paperwork complete we are told to provide a passport photocopy and are directed to a small room through a side entrance to the building where for a few cents the xerox machine is available with people clamoring all over to use it first. Now back around the building hike the 4 floors of stairs and oh, you need three copies of this document too. So back down the stairs around the building past the outdoor paperwork stand in the side door and wait in line to get copies then back around and up again. Ok, looks like we have the paperwork. Now we’re lead up another couple flights of stairs to the import czar. This guy is the king if he says no, we ain’t getting it. Another long line of questioning and disbelief that such an item even exist. For a moment I didn’t think he was going to approve it as he went on about how there is only a set list of items that are allowed in and this wasn’t on the list. Finally, he agrees, signs the papers, but oh there is customs fees. Down several flights to find the cashier where I pay a hundred bucks to get a stamp so UPS will release the package. Whew, what a ridiculous rigamarole. As we are going to leave, the guy helping expedite the process extorts us for helping out. 20 bucks please. Geesh!!Ok now we have the paperwork and catch a taxi across town to the UPS warehouse where the package is actually being held.

We arrive at the UPS warehouse worn out and amused how difficult this has been. UPS however wasn’t any better. Conversations with a few different folks lead to being sent to one office then the next all reviewing the paperwork and questioning what is in the package. Finally we’re led to a warehouse where someone brings the package, I’m thinking yeah, it’s here. Now into another room where they ask more questions and open and inspect the contents in front of us. You’d think we where smuggling drugs. The guy who opens the Kindle doesn’t speak English and just stares at the Kindle clueless as it has English text and packing stickers all over it. They’re satisfied what we’re claiming is in the package. Now to another office for more questioning and approval to be sent to yet another office where someone enters the paperwork into a PC and sends us on to yet one more guy to enter more computer stuff and oh, by the way, you owe 50 bucks for UPS storing the package. What the F! Fine, pay the damn extortion and finally get my Kindle rescued. Yeah!!!!!

It’s 4:30 we’re exhausted and hungry as we haven’t eaten all day,. I’m down $170 and Servet and I are both dismayed yet laughing our asses off at the ridiculous hoops required to get a package. We later find out what took us the greater part of a day was lightning speed due to a high up executive pulling some strings. Normally it would have taken 2-4 days of the same BS. How incredibly wasteful and ridiculous. Another interesting fact, if my friend whom forwarded the package hadn’t been honest about what they where shipping and/or it’s value it would have slid right through and been delivered. Boy do I wish they had just said it was a couple books instead of a book reader.

I can’t thank Servet enough for spending the day haggling on my behalf. As a native Turkish speaker she was immensely helpful and I have no doubt I would have been extorted significantly more had she not been involved. Heck I’d still be trying to figure the whole process out.

I’ve had my hands on it for less than a day and I can tell I already like it. I hope it turns out as useful as I hope considering what it took to get it. I’ll report on it more later as I discover its best use.

Relaxing in Istanbul

Saturday, June 20th, 2009

I arrived in Istanbul exhausted from days of non-stop go go go activity and have been laying low. I spent the first day just casually walking around Istanbul getting a lay of the land and seeing what there is to do. Istanbul, to me, is no way a third world country. It’s clean, neat, organized, and more like visiting a modern European city. As I meander I come across beautiful Mosques, manicured boulevards, park lined ocean fronts with families barbequing, sailboats trimmed rail in the water in 20 knot breezes cruising up the coast, and a busy port with dozens of passenger ferry boats shuttling people to sets of small mountainous islands in the distance and other areas of Istanbul as it sprawls down the coast. While it is a Muslim country I can immediately sense a difference from Egypt and Morocco. Few women here are wearing the traditional head scarfs. There are people in shorts including some women and signs of getting a drink are readily available. It has a charm I can see spending days here.

My friends from Tampa, Servet and her daughter Cassandra, originally from Turkey, happened to be visiting friends and family here and it’s been wonderful to meet up with known friends. For the past three days Servet, a group of her childhood friends, and I have been laying by the pool drinking beers on Heybeliada, one of the islands twenty minutes off the coast of Istanbul. This place is a tranquil oasis away from the city. The only mode of transportation on the island is by horse drawn carriage or your own two feet. No cars, scooters, golf carts, or any sort of noisy mechanized device. What a place to recharge ones batteries and even more wonderful is doing it with local friends. The islands are forested with pines and scattered with stunning homes which I’m sure have stunning values. Tourism seems non existent as the small local village is lined with cafes, restaurants, and goods for locals with none of the typical trinket stores I would have anticipated.

I’m charged and ready to go back at it for the remainder of my stay however I’ve run into a glitch which may have me stuck in Istanbul for a few days. At the outset of this trip I made the decision to go hi tech and one of the new trinkets I purchased is the Kindle DX a new digital book reader from Amazon. However the product was so new, I didn’t receive it before departing. Thus it was shipped to a friend and they subsequently forwarded it to me here. Well, it’s somewhere in Istanbul but stuck in customs and they won’t release it and even my local friends are having difficulties figuring out what is required to get it released. It’s now the weekend and we’ll have to wait till Monday to attempt once again.

Why the Kindle DX? Amazon came out with the the Kindle around a year ago and it has been a revolutionary book reading product. Small lightweight and able to hold thousands of books. It would be a godsend to travelers as bringing reading books and guidebooks in ones pack are the equivalent of packing bricks. More advantageous is on an around the world trip such as I’m doing one can’t carry a guidebook for each country at the outset and has to find them in route. Meaning in Turkey I’d have to find a bookstore which has English versions of books for Africa, my next stop, and in Africa find a book for India the next stop etc. A necessary time consuming hassle I’d prefer not to deal with. The problem however is the original Kindle didn’t read PDF’s which the major guidebook companies sell over the internet. Amazon released the new Kindle DX, which reads PDF’s, just a few weeks before my departure and I pounced on the opportunity to be one of the first to test this new potentially revolutionary product. If it works as advertised I should be able to download guidebooks and carry them all in one small lightweight device. Now I just have to get it through Turkish customs. I am excited about this new toy and will be reporting on it’s usefulness as I go along to advise other travelers as to it’s pros and cons.

I’ve started filming some video for the first time. Attempting to upload the first of these has brought to light a lack of free press. My choice for sharing, YouTube, turns out is blocked by the Turkish government. Meaning nobody in the entire country can access the well known site. How puzzling and surprising for a country that seems so progressive. I’ve found an alternate streaming video provider and have posted the first short clip I took in Egypt while on the river boat cruise. You may watch it here. I’m very inexperienced with video and I’m shooting it with a digital still camera as I don’t have a video camera so this will be a fun diversion to practice and test in a very amateur way.

It’s wonderful to hang out with what is hopefully the first of many friends that will meet up with me during the trip. I have updated the itinerary page on finding flattop with my scheduled flight dates. Check them out and if you are interested in sharing part of this adventurous journey, get in touch.