Kindle Rescue

My delay due to waiting the weekend for Monday to acquire my Kindle from customs gave me the time to hang with Servet and her friends giving me a much better look into what life is like for Turks. On the outside life is very similar to the US, at least in Istanbul. Istanbul is a very modern city and of all the major European cities I’ve seen, which is a bunch, it’s prettier and more picturesque than most. This place could grow on me quickly. The city is divided into two sides by the Bosphorous River which runs from the Black Sea to the Marmara Sea.. The Asian side named as it is on the Asian Continent and the European side on the European continent, is the only place in the world with a ferry ride one crosses between two continents. This distribution of the city creates hundreds of miles of coast line dotted with beautiful parks, waterside cafes, ferry docks, homes, and more. My time has been spent exploring the Asian side with Servet, seeing where she grew up, visiting and having dinner with her friends, looking out over the blue waters wishing I were on one of the many sailboats cruising the coastline. The lifestyle and place I could adopt quite quickly. Of note we made a stop at a country club where one of her friends is members, and I felt like I was at a hi end club in Miami Beach, not what I would have anticipated.

Ah Monday arrived and now I can go get my much anticipate Kindle. While Turkey on the outside appears very modern it quickly becomes apparent why in some ways it’s still a third world country. One of Servet’s friends is an executive in the import business and called ahead pulling some strings to expedite the process. Our first mission is finding the UPS office at the airport cargo terminal. There is a good public transport system in Istanbul however, for a traveler, it’s a bit cumbersome to figure out and most of it is not tourist friendly. My morning journey to the airport starts with a taxi ride, 15 minutes of walking through a pedestrian market to the ferry docks, catching a ferry to the European side, a street trolley ride, subway to the main terminal, and then a half hour of asking numerous people for directions to an unsigned cargo terminal on the outskirts of the airport. Whew, UPS is found 2 hours into the excursion. They give us some paperwork and send us to the unmarked customs building next door for clearance. Through numerous inquiries we find ourselves hiking 4 flights of stairs in an non-air-conditioned building with 100 degree heat outside and successfully locate a guy setup by Servet’s friend to expedite the process amongst people running back and forth in no apparent order seeming to know what they are doing. After a lengthy interrogation of what we are importing with disbelief there is such a thing as an electronic book reader, we get drug down the stairs out around the corner of the building where there is a vine covered tin structure for shade filled with men in suits and briefcases standing next to makeshift counters filling out paperwork in the boiling heat. Paperwork complete we are told to provide a passport photocopy and are directed to a small room through a side entrance to the building where for a few cents the xerox machine is available with people clamoring all over to use it first. Now back around the building hike the 4 floors of stairs and oh, you need three copies of this document too. So back down the stairs around the building past the outdoor paperwork stand in the side door and wait in line to get copies then back around and up again. Ok, looks like we have the paperwork. Now we’re lead up another couple flights of stairs to the import czar. This guy is the king if he says no, we ain’t getting it. Another long line of questioning and disbelief that such an item even exist. For a moment I didn’t think he was going to approve it as he went on about how there is only a set list of items that are allowed in and this wasn’t on the list. Finally, he agrees, signs the papers, but oh there is customs fees. Down several flights to find the cashier where I pay a hundred bucks to get a stamp so UPS will release the package. Whew, what a ridiculous rigamarole. As we are going to leave, the guy helping expedite the process extorts us for helping out. 20 bucks please. Geesh!!Ok now we have the paperwork and catch a taxi across town to the UPS warehouse where the package is actually being held.

We arrive at the UPS warehouse worn out and amused how difficult this has been. UPS however wasn’t any better. Conversations with a few different folks lead to being sent to one office then the next all reviewing the paperwork and questioning what is in the package. Finally we’re led to a warehouse where someone brings the package, I’m thinking yeah, it’s here. Now into another room where they ask more questions and open and inspect the contents in front of us. You’d think we where smuggling drugs. The guy who opens the Kindle doesn’t speak English and just stares at the Kindle clueless as it has English text and packing stickers all over it. They’re satisfied what we’re claiming is in the package. Now to another office for more questioning and approval to be sent to yet another office where someone enters the paperwork into a PC and sends us on to yet one more guy to enter more computer stuff and oh, by the way, you owe 50 bucks for UPS storing the package. What the F! Fine, pay the damn extortion and finally get my Kindle rescued. Yeah!!!!!

It’s 4:30 we’re exhausted and hungry as we haven’t eaten all day,. I’m down $170 and Servet and I are both dismayed yet laughing our asses off at the ridiculous hoops required to get a package. We later find out what took us the greater part of a day was lightning speed due to a high up executive pulling some strings. Normally it would have taken 2-4 days of the same BS. How incredibly wasteful and ridiculous. Another interesting fact, if my friend whom forwarded the package hadn’t been honest about what they where shipping and/or it’s value it would have slid right through and been delivered. Boy do I wish they had just said it was a couple books instead of a book reader.

I can’t thank Servet enough for spending the day haggling on my behalf. As a native Turkish speaker she was immensely helpful and I have no doubt I would have been extorted significantly more had she not been involved. Heck I’d still be trying to figure the whole process out.

I’ve had my hands on it for less than a day and I can tell I already like it. I hope it turns out as useful as I hope considering what it took to get it. I’ll report on it more later as I discover its best use.

Posted in Istanbul, Turkey | 2 Comments

Relaxing in Istanbul

I arrived in Istanbul exhausted from days of non-stop go go go activity and have been laying low. I spent the first day just casually walking around Istanbul getting a lay of the land and seeing what there is to do. Istanbul, to me, is no way a third world country. It’s clean, neat, organized, and more like visiting a modern European city. As I meander I come across beautiful Mosques, manicured boulevards, park lined ocean fronts with families barbequing, sailboats trimmed rail in the water in 20 knot breezes cruising up the coast, and a busy port with dozens of passenger ferry boats shuttling people to sets of small mountainous islands in the distance and other areas of Istanbul as it sprawls down the coast. While it is a Muslim country I can immediately sense a difference from Egypt and Morocco. Few women here are wearing the traditional head scarfs. There are people in shorts including some women and signs of getting a drink are readily available. It has a charm I can see spending days here.

My friends from Tampa, Servet and her daughter Cassandra, originally from Turkey, happened to be visiting friends and family here and it’s been wonderful to meet up with known friends. For the past three days Servet, a group of her childhood friends, and I have been laying by the pool drinking beers on Heybeliada, one of the islands twenty minutes off the coast of Istanbul. This place is a tranquil oasis away from the city. The only mode of transportation on the island is by horse drawn carriage or your own two feet. No cars, scooters, golf carts, or any sort of noisy mechanized device. What a place to recharge ones batteries and even more wonderful is doing it with local friends. The islands are forested with pines and scattered with stunning homes which I’m sure have stunning values. Tourism seems non existent as the small local village is lined with cafes, restaurants, and goods for locals with none of the typical trinket stores I would have anticipated.

I’m charged and ready to go back at it for the remainder of my stay however I’ve run into a glitch which may have me stuck in Istanbul for a few days. At the outset of this trip I made the decision to go hi tech and one of the new trinkets I purchased is the Kindle DX a new digital book reader from Amazon. However the product was so new, I didn’t receive it before departing. Thus it was shipped to a friend and they subsequently forwarded it to me here. Well, it’s somewhere in Istanbul but stuck in customs and they won’t release it and even my local friends are having difficulties figuring out what is required to get it released. It’s now the weekend and we’ll have to wait till Monday to attempt once again.

Why the Kindle DX? Amazon came out with the the Kindle around a year ago and it has been a revolutionary book reading product. Small lightweight and able to hold thousands of books. It would be a godsend to travelers as bringing reading books and guidebooks in ones pack are the equivalent of packing bricks. More advantageous is on an around the world trip such as I’m doing one can’t carry a guidebook for each country at the outset and has to find them in route. Meaning in Turkey I’d have to find a bookstore which has English versions of books for Africa, my next stop, and in Africa find a book for India the next stop etc. A necessary time consuming hassle I’d prefer not to deal with. The problem however is the original Kindle didn’t read PDF’s which the major guidebook companies sell over the internet. Amazon released the new Kindle DX, which reads PDF’s, just a few weeks before my departure and I pounced on the opportunity to be one of the first to test this new potentially revolutionary product. If it works as advertised I should be able to download guidebooks and carry them all in one small lightweight device. Now I just have to get it through Turkish customs. I am excited about this new toy and will be reporting on it’s usefulness as I go along to advise other travelers as to it’s pros and cons.

I’ve started filming some video for the first time. Attempting to upload the first of these has brought to light a lack of free press. My choice for sharing, YouTube, turns out is blocked by the Turkish government. Meaning nobody in the entire country can access the well known site. How puzzling and surprising for a country that seems so progressive. I’ve found an alternate streaming video provider and have posted the first short clip I took in Egypt while on the river boat cruise. You may watch it here. I’m very inexperienced with video and I’m shooting it with a digital still camera as I don’t have a video camera so this will be a fun diversion to practice and test in a very amateur way.

It’s wonderful to hang out with what is hopefully the first of many friends that will meet up with me during the trip. I have updated the itinerary page on finding flattop with my scheduled flight dates. Check them out and if you are interested in sharing part of this adventurous journey, get in touch.

Posted in Istanbul, Turkey | 3 Comments

Egypt

Egypt has been a whirlwind, and I believe I’ve done every tourist thing possible in three long days. Due to the short stop here I hired a guide which was an outstanding decision. Hend, my guide, is a young lady with a 4 year degree in some sort of tourist antiquities program. Guides here in Egypt are licensed by the government and it’s a 4 year college program where they learn all about the artifacts and history to the sites. She has been a treasure trove of information and made this stop hassle free. So, writing about it and making it interesting is a bit more difficult as the problem areas tend to be easier to write about.

In three days, I’ve tromped around Cairo, been to Saqqara to see the first ever built Pyramid, stared awe inspired at the majestic pyramids of Giza as the famous Sphinx looms protecting them, taken a river boat dinner cruise down the Nile, gazed at out of this world artifacts and statues at the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities, visited Old Coptic Cairo and the synagogues, walked around the citadel and the Alabaster Mosque of Mohammed Ali, smelled dozens of different essence at a perfume shop, witnessed how papyrus paper is made, driven to the great city of Alexandria to take in the Roman Theatre, Catacombs, Citadel, Alexandria Library, and the Royal families summer palace. My mind aches trying to remember all the unusual names of long ago Pharaohs and meanings to hieroglyphics

Cairo itself is a massive city of 20 million people humming 24/7. Cars old and new cram 5 to 6 or more wide into three lanes. Traffic signals typically being ignored and cars randomly change or swerve lanes to reach their destination. The city is covered in what is a mix of dust/sand and smog, blocking clear views of the sky. It’s modern yet a step back in time. Ancient buildings next to new more modern ones. Newer cars as well as old ones. Remember the old VW hippie type vans. They’re everywhere and are used as a local transport option similar to a shared taxi.

Seeing the Pyramids brings to light, modern Egyptians prepare their tomes well before death as the Pharaohs started eons ago. How unique!

Words cannot describe all the feelings and thoughts which have crossed my head these past few days. The highlights for me include standing in a Roman Amphitheater several thousand years old and discovering their knowledge of acoustics. A small stone base when one stands on it and speaks toward a section of stadium seating can hear oneself through a natural feedback from the stone. Remove one foot or turn away from the stands and the speaker like sound of yourself disappears. Entering the catacombs in Alexandria, another highlight, I felt as if I where Indian Jones discovering new artifacts passing through ancient hieroglyphic archways, engraved painted walls, and sarcophagi. All I needed is a whip. Sorry no cameras where allowed.

My favorite of this adventurous stop is surprisingly the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities. I typically despise museum visits and found myself mesmerized for a few hours. It brought to life everything I’d seen the first couple days. Enormous amounts of history, culture, and context seem to speak out looking at all the different statues, paintings, tombs, mummies, and more than one could take in over days of viewing.  Again no camers allowed.

I could go on for pages about everything here and while everything I did was pure tourist, it would be neat to return one day at a slower pace to experience the local culture as well.

I cannot thank Hend enough for making this quick stop go smoother than I could have ever imagined. If anyone is ever headed to Egypt, get in touch and I guarantee you’ll be pleased. While she was working in a professional capacity, we got to know each other pretty well and if she is anything like other Egyptians it would be an honor to know them as well.

Updated photos are complete for Morocco and there are pics for Egpyt as well. check out pictures

Posted in Egypt | 2 Comments

Morocco and onto Cairo

Well, my first stop Morocco is almost complete. I am at the Casablanca airport waiting for my flight to stop 2, Cairo! What and adventure it has been and the year has barely begun. I think for the first time I’m actually starting to feel like this is for real.

I met up with Sara, my new and first Moroccan friend, in Ifrane. I spent the past day and a half hanging out chatting, meeting her college friends, and of course a tour of the campus. What a wonderful experience it has been.

Ifrane is significantly different than the rest of Morocco. It’s a very modern clean town in the middle of what the local tourist office claims is the largest cedar forest in the world. Seems like everything I’m doing is the biggest, smallest, or mostest of some sort. This town reminds me more of a ski resort in the Rockies than it does Morocco. It’s a place more Moroccan tourist visit than foreigners. Activities are more nature oriented in the surrounding towns and forest.

Sara gave me a tour of Alakhawayn University where she is a computer science major. Just like Ifrane it’s an incredibly modern establishment and I find an environment not really any different than I would expect to find on any campus in the US. Similar social structures and pressures are apparent as we chat away. It reinforces my belief that people are people even though we come from different backgrounds. Not knowing any Muslims I spent a fair amount of time asking Sara about her faith and while there are many differences between her faith and others, there are a tremendous amount of similarities to others as well.

I am grateful and thankful she invited me and spent the time hanging out with me. Her open friendliness is what I have found in general amongst Moroccans and I am proud to consider her a new friend. I look forward to hearing from her and following her aspirations as she sets out on a journey of discovering how to have a positive impact on her country. Sara, if you are reading this, Thank you again for your kind hospitality.

As I put Morocco behind me for the next adventure, I can only say, WOW. This has been a wonderful start and I can only hope I have as good a time everywhere I go. While some things are a hassle as I’ve lead to in my previous writings, this place and the people are so inviting. It is on the list of top places I’ve been and wish to one day return. The rewards far outway the hassles one encounters in the larger tourist hubs. I could easily spend a year or more here exploring the many other diverse locations I didn’t’ get to see. If you’re considering a trip and would like to see a different way of life, and be exposed to wonderful people, in a safe environment, put Morocco on your list. While I have many friends at home which have a stereotype that for some reason Morocco might not be safe, not once did I get the sense it was not a safe place. Albiet women would be encouraged not to travel alone as they might get hassled due to the culture, however I meet a few single women solo traveling and they were doing just fine. Morocco has a good public transportation system and it’s realtivley easy to get around as well.

I should note, in my travels everyplace I went I spent the fast majority of my time in the Medina (old town/historic districts) sections of town, which are all very touristy. Each place I went had newer modern areas that I got a glimpse of through a taxi window. If I had more time or maybe on a return trip I would spend some time checking out those areas as well, and I have no doubt I would find a different experience. However I think the people would be just as incredible.

See you in Cairo…..

Posted in Ifrane, Morocco | 2 Comments

Chefchaouen

My thoughts of the hammam being a good place for bacteria growth must have been right on. I awoke with a head cold and have been stuffy with sinus pressure and yellow buggers for three days now. Uck!

I made my way via a local bus to Chefchaouen a magnificent little town nestled in the Rif mountains. Getting out of the major cities has been such a blessing, the people are wonderful and locals hassling you are minimal. My arrival which I thought was going to be at a bus station, ended up leaving me on the side of the road leading into the town. I had taken an odd very local bus due to having left from a not so optimal origination point. Now what, I see a bunch of houses spread around the mountain side, but really have no idea where I’m at in reference to the small area map I have. Within minutes a local pulls over jabbering in Spanish to my surprise, even more surprising I knew enough to communicate with him. In the back of the pickup I go, and he not only drives me to the closest place to reach my hotel he parks grabs my bag and carries it through a maze of steep steps right into the lobby. What a great introduction to a town full of Spanish speakers, even the menus are Spanish here.

Chefchaouen is a mountain side village with all the homes painted in a bright baby blue enhancing it’s charm. It’s an arts and crafts village. Wandering through cobblestone streets soaking in the beauty of such simplicity I quickly discover this beauty is known for Hash-hish (marijuana) by numerous shops and locals asking me if I want to smoke or would like something to open my mind. The surrounding Rif mountains legally produce 45% of the worlds production. Aside from this minor annoyance I find locals crafts people working in their shops producing wares for sale in the local shops. This place is tranquil with a romantic appeal. I find myself chatting it up with local shop owners to sitting at a corner cafe with three guys hi as a kite puffing one joint after another. Everyone I encounter in this mellow place is genuine and incredibly friendly. Maybe it’s all the hash.

What a contrast from the Atlas mountains in the south where it is errand and rocky. Here the mountains are forested and green.

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Day two I set out to summit Jebel El-kelaa, a 5313 ft high peak towering over town. What I had been lead to believe would be a pretty easy hike by my guide book turned into a strenuous 8 hour day up a very steep windy 4×4 path weaving around boulders and mountain goats. I summit in the burning sun and cool breeze exhausted having sweated out the last drop of the two liters of water I’d brought to take in a wonderful vista for a few moments. Lesson, always bring more water than you think you’ll need. In desperation for a drop to wet my parched dry mouth I make it back down in record time, passing several other hikers that had started their decent before me. 

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Exhausted from the day I set out to find a beer to soak my sorry muscles, and I ponder this was undoubtedly a much needed warmup for Nepal. I decide I need to find a better pair of boots. While the hiking shoes I’m wearing will do, something more rigid is going to be in order for days on end of such rough terrain. I have a mission, find good new boots before getting to Nepal and have time to break them in.

Finding a beer turns into a mission. Morocco certainly follows it’s Muslim roots. Bars are not very common and when you do find one, it’s males only. They are seedy dark dirty smoke filled rooms hidden from the main pathways. Very few restaurants serve any alcohol, and if you’re lucky one may sneak one too you with a polite inquiry. The occasional hotel has a bar and I find one through inquiry as it’s an environment more to my liking. I’ve found one Moroccan beer thus far, Casablanca, and the beer lover I am, it’s not much better than Budweiser.

Today I made my way back into the hustle of a big city stopping in Fes, a city with the largest pedestrian only district in the world. My skills well honed for the taxi hustle I find no taxi’s immediately outside the bus station with a mafioso type boss offering rides with one of his underlings for an exorbitant rate. I refuse and cross the street. Empty taxi after taxi drives by refusing to pick up any passengers, locals or not. They have fear in their eyes as they pass by, pretending like they didn’t notice anyone. A local elderly women gets in a screaming match with one of the bouncer type dudes and I can only imagine she is scolding him out for ripping people off. I decide I’m better off elsewhere and huff it a couple blocks away where I find lines of taxi’s happy to take me no questions using the meter.

Fes is a labyrinth of narrow mazed alley ways filled with shopping. It’s an adventure setting myself free to get lost in dead ends and wonderful discoveries. At first it can overwhelm the senses absorbing all the action at once. Without my compass I surely would have had to hire a local guide. Now I know what it must feel like to be a hamster in a maze looking for the way out. This place makes Venice look like a postage stamp in comparison. I stumble upon a tannery. Here is the heart of Moroccan leather. An industry hundreds of years old the smell is overpowering from the stench of dead animal skin and all the weird chemicals used to make leather goods. Pigeon shit and cow urine being two of the main ingredients used in processing a skin. A feeling of extreme fortune overcomes me standing on a balcony overlooking the area where the hides are dyed. It’s mostly kids standing waist deep in vats of dye and chemicals pushing and stirring the skins the old fashioned way. Most of them where born into families working here and have inherited a life of hard back breaking work. The rank alone would make one sick, I can only imagine what spending all day standing in the stuff would do to oneself. The show Dirty Jobs should come here if they want something truly dirty and over the top. How truly blessed I am to be born in a different situation.

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I’m sitting hear at a cafe enjoying mint tea, a wonderful Moroccan specialty. I’ve never been a big fan of tea. Maybe it’s the place or maybe it’s all the mint, I’m digging it while watching a myriad of people stroll by, wondering what each of their unique stories are.

Tomorrow, I head off to spend the afternoon in Ifrane with my new friend Sara.

I have updated photos also, so go back through the Morocco pics and at the end are new ones.

Posted in Chefchaouen, Fes, Morocco | Comments Off on Chefchaouen